Donggala Woven Sarong and its Distinctive Design

BULETIN TEKSTIL.COM/ Jakarta -Ever heard of Donggala Sarong? Although Donggala Sarong is widely produced, not every designers and customers are aware of the design.

Donggala is a port city in Central Sulawesi. The woven fabric is generally made in the East and West Coast of Donggala with its clear water filled with coral reefs on its seabed. The woven fabric was done as a side job at first, but due to its high demand as both traditional and daily fashion, the fabric is then sold widely.

The beauty of Donggala Sarong is one of its charm compared to other Indonesian traditional fabrics. This type of fabric is made from two materials, real silk and blend of viscose rayon with cotton that still feels like silk.

Natural colouring have been abandoned due to the concerns in woven products with high colour fading resistance. In streamlining the work of Donggala Sarong craftsmen, there are specializations in work, such as those who specifically spin and dye the yarns, arranging yarns on looms (designing the composition of motifs) each of which is entrusted to one party, while the weaving process is done by other craftsmen. By doing these specializations, the speed and accuracy of the work are more reliable.

In contrast to Javanese batik motifs, the variety of Donggala fabric motifs do not specifically contain distinctive purpose for any social stratum of its users. The difference is only visible in the use and selection of colors. For example, bright and eye-catching colours are generally worn by young people, while dark and calm colours are worn more by older people, especially men.

According to Suwarti Kartiwa on Taman Mini Indonesia Indah book series, Donggala Woven Fabric traditionally has several types based on the production method, such as:

1. Polekat Garusu and Buya Cura Fabric

The basic of the two fabrics are the weaving of warp yarn (locally known as pusua yarn) and weft yarn (pusus yarn) that has different colours, generally pink and dark purple, though some warp yarns are used as the weft yarn. The size of yarn patterns depends on the desired shape. The weft and warp lines crosses that forms small and large rectangles are called dam-dam. Generally, if the dam-dam has large rectangles, it is called Buya tuna lapa. If the dam-dam contains of small rectangles, then it is called Buya ganboro.

Donggala woven fabric with silk material, Buya tuna lapa.

2. Buya Bomba Motifs

Buya Bomba patterns have distinct type of weaving, such as Tavanggadue (taro leaf), Seskaranji (basket fruit flower), Yonjokea (perched parrot), Vala’a (creeping flower), Bomba Kota (checkered flower), Poindo tava ronto flower (chandelier-shaped flower with deciduous leaves), Tavanompulo (vine leaves), Punanu Unu (banyan tree) Cando flower (grafting flower), Lanto flower (water flower), Lanto flower (water flower), Kacandiva kao-kao (curly leaves), and several other motives.

3. Buya Subi Motifs

Made by songket technique (with additional weft) or sungkit (with additional warp) with flower patterns.

4. Bomba and Sumbi Combination Fabric

This type is done twice by dipping then followed by sungkit process.

5. Buya Bomba Kota Fabric

Checkered pattern with tying technique of warp and weft threads with double tie. Apart from Gringsing Bali fabric, double tie is also used in several woven motifs from other regions.

6. Buya Awi Fabric

The weaving is plain with one colour without any patterns.

One of many Donggala Woven Fabric. The colours and motifs have similarities to Bugis woven fabric in South Sulawesi. Other than Central Sulawesi residents, the Arabic descendants are also pursuing the production of Donggala woven fabric. Apart from self-weaving and employing local weavers, the entrepreneurs also trade in yarn, chemical dyes, and various types of weaving necessities. According to observers, there is mutual influence between the patterns of the Donggala woven fabric and the Gresik woven fabric from this inter-island trade.

(Red B-Teks/ Adi Kusrianto)

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