FASHION IN INDONESIA: A BRIEF HISTORY
BULETIN TEKSTIL.COM/Jakarta – Seventy-seven years has passed since the Indonesians first celebrated their independence from colonization. We must be thankful for the independence which our leaders have fought so hard for in the past. For this reason, we now can enjoy our freedom as a nation who has an identity. Freedom here, not only can be interpreted as freedom from colonization, but also freedom to express our various expressions and creativities, including, certainly, in the world of fashion.
The fashion industry in Indonesia is currently developing very rapidly. Numerous local Indonesian brands have emerged in these past several years. The amount of fashion shows has increased throughout the years in various cities in Indonesia. But where did it all come from? Only very few people are aware of the history of fashion in Indonesia.
There are several known names who are considered as pioneers of fashion in Indonesia. The first one is Peter Sie, whose full name is Sie Tiam Ie. He was born in Bogor on December 28th, 1929. From his early childhood, the youngest of the seven siblings has been interested in the skills of sewing, especially when Mak Wek, his family’s seamstress who was hired by Peter Sie’s mother, came to their house to sew clothes for him and his siblings. Only by observing Mak Wek he then attempted to and succeeded in making his very first own garment. Since then, Peter continuously sharpened his skills in pattern making and sewing, until when he was 17 years old, his brother-in-law, Kho Han Gao, asked him to come with him to the Netherlands. In 1947 Peter Sie took his formal education when he entered in Vakschool voor Kleermakers & Coupers in Den Haag, Netherlands, and was awarded as the best graduate in his year. After he graduated, Peter went for internship for three years in a company that produced garments for the royals.
Peter Sie
After returning from the Netherlands, Peter initially started his sewing business in Mangga Besar. His clients were mainly ladies of Chinese descendants who resided around his neighborhood. After four years of designing and sketching, in 1959 Peter Sie finally organized his first fashion show which was titled “Charme de Paris” in Des Indes Hotel (now Duta Merlin shopping center). Many important figures attended that fashion show, including Fatmawati Soekarno, wife of late President Soekarno, first Indonesian President. Peter Sie’s designs, which took many inspirations from Paris, and had the characteristics of precision and refinement of fashion workmanship, were well preferred by many important figures. President Soekarno’s family was also a fan of his work and became his loyal clients.
Model Danny Dahlan Wearing One of Peter Sie’s dresses
In 1974 Peter Sie experienced a crisis when for several months no one showed up in his studio to order garments from him. One of his staffs then suggested him to produce several ready to wear garments to be offered for sale. This turns out to be a life savior, and this decision also placed him as one of the pioneer designers of ready to wear in Indonesia. He is also often known as the pioneer of haute couture in Indonesia, though he dislikes the title, being aware that the term haute couture requires plentiful of arduous criteria. Peter preferred to be called as the Pioneer of Indonesian Fashion.
Peter Sie worked until the end of his life
In the period from 1980s until 2001, Peter Sie’s name in the Indonesian fashion world submerged, until in 2001 he organized a fashion exhibition and fashion show, and released his autobiography titled “Mode Adalah Hidupku” (Fashion Is My Life). In his latter part of life, until he passed away, Peter Sie remained active in his work and helped young designers by becoming jury in various fashion design competitions and was always willing to share his knowledge. Peter Sie passed away on April 1st, 2011, at the age of 82.
Another important figure in the Indonesian fashion industry is Non Kawilarang, mother of the late actress Rima Melati. Born as Adriana Paula Adeline Kawilarang in Tondano. North Sulawesi, in 1917, she is the founder of the first boutique and beauty salon in Indonesia. Non Kawilarang started her interest in designing and garment making since her education years in MULO (similar to junior high school) until later she pursued her education in sewing skills in Rotterdam Sewing Academy, Netherlands, from 1936 until 1938, also in Hong Kong from 1963 until 1966. Non Kawilarang was the first person who organized a fashion show in Indonesia in 1951, titled Fashion Fantasia. Initially, the fashion shows were held only twice a year but became increasingly more frequent. Her shows were often attended by important figures and elites of Indonesia.
The Dress designed by Non Kawilarang was worn by the first Miss Indonesia, Irma Hardisurya,1951
Non Kawilarang’s pioneering for Indonesian fashion world were quite many. Besides organizing the first ever fashion in Indonesia, in 1951 she also opened her first boutique, Shri Fatma, in the Metropole Complex (now Megaria), Cikini, Central Jakarta. Shri Fatwa was the given name by President Soekarno, taken from the name of his wife, Fatmawati, which means the most beautiful woman. This also made Non Kawilarang the pioneer of first retail business in Indonesia. Furthermore, she was also the pioneer of the first modelling agency of Indonesia when she established Indonesian Modelling Agency (IMA) in 1972. Enny Sukamto, Titi Qadarsih, Sumi Hakim, and Rahadian Yamin were some the well-known models at that time, generated from IMA.
Rima Melati model, at a fashion show by Non Kawilarang
Several other important figures in the Indonesian fashion world were a group of friends, Sjamsidar Isa, Prajudi Admodirdjo and Lily Salim, whom, after their return from studying in Germany to Indonesia, decided to establish Studio One, the first ready to wear fashion label in Indonesia, in 1975. As part of their strategy to market their collections, they routinely participated in fashion shows in Borobudur Hotel, organized by Non Kawilarang. Their strategy proved to be successful and the fashion shows that they organized became extremely popular. Studio One then was frequently asked to organize fashion shows in various well-known hotels such as Borobudur and Hilton.
Sjamsidar Isa and his daughter Aida Nurmala
Unfortunately, the difference of vision and mission of the Studio One founders caused them to part and Sjamsidar Isa chose to establish her own fashion organizer, which was the pioneer of the first fashion organizer in Indonesia, named according to the name of the clothing label, Studio One. What was once started from its focus as a fashion organizer, Studio One developed to become an event organizer that does not only handled fashion events, but also product launchings and other events. Now the leadership of Studio One has been passed to Sjamsidar Isa’s daughter, Aida Nurmala. This move was necessary, so that the company can continue to adapt and to survive to the progress of times.
(Red B-Teks /Shinta Djiwatampu)
Fashion Design Program Director LaSalle College Jakarta
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